175hrs – Ch 24 – Covers and Fairings

I haven’t kept best track of this chapter, as there is a lot of thinking how things are going to fit, and is also a good time to get other little things completed on the interior. Since this chapter consists of making covers for all that stuff, it’s good to have the stuff in there to guarantee a proper fit!

Electrical Contuits In Place 2Started cutting out the foam for the armrests and fastened the pieces together with drywall screws. Realized that I would need to have my electrical conduits in place before finishing the covers, so I added them in next. Created foam molds for the conduits, covered in tape for release, and glassed with 2 BID.

 

Front ArmrestI started fitting my arm rests in the front seat, and realized that I needed to install my electrical conduits, rudder cable conduits, and brake lines first. I decided to to the electrical conduits in chunks and have removable armrests to access the cabling. Floxed them in place, and followed that by adding the rudder lines. Then I determined the position of my brake lines to the brake actuators. While I have the fuse on the left side, it was a good time to try out the landing brake. As it turns out, the previous builder attached one of the brackets with the nuts in the middle of the channel, and the actuator cannot clear when running. I created a new bracket with a longer base so I can position the nut in an area where it will not be in the way.  I would of liked to have turned the bracket around, but there was not enough hardpoint NACA Scoop Wideningthere to drill new holes and keep secure. I have also been modifying the NACA scoop, as they should not come to a point as the plans state. There should e a 1.5″ section that is completely smooth with the belly for good cooling.  Something I first learned in the CSA newsletter, and reinforced at Rough River last year. That being said, I sanded down the NACA scoop flat at the tip, and will finish up with some micro and glass.

Additional Supports for Control HardwareAgain, I have been bouncing between projects, and taking care of misc items. After sanding down the tip of the NACA scoop, I realized I sanded too much foam, which is easy to do, since the foam sands off much easier than the fiberglass. I created a dam and used pour foam to replace. Finished with two layer of fiberglass.

Similar to Wayne Hicks, I have glassed in a couple of triangular pieces to the control blocks to strengthen them, so I have the option of removable armrests. While I had the torque tubes out, I decided to prime them with Dupli-color self-etching primer. Also opened up holes in the bulkheads where clearance was needed. Traced out Hanka Spring 2and glassed the front seat thigh supports. After cure, cut them to the final dimensions. Created the jigs for the Davenport pitch trim spring, and the Hanka roll trim spring and glassed.

Davenport Spring 2Work continues on the left arm rests, as I figure how I will proceed. Decided to go completely removable, Ala Wayne Hicks. I also adopted his solution to the transition urethane, and just completing it with more of the PVC. Continued with building the rear left armrests, also fully removable. Added the 45 degree sliver on the inside for support. Glassed the inside with one ply BID and peel Front Armrestplied. Realized the rear armrest was touching the torque tube when fitted, so I had to extend the arm rest and glass it .

Prepped the outside of the front armrest and glassed with 2 BID. Finished with peel ply. Kim glassed the top of her thigh support with 2 plies BID and peel ply. Finished prepping the left rear armrest, and glassed with 2 ply BID.

Offset of Front Console SidesThe center console isn’t technically part of this chapter, but may as well be. Started by figuring out the basic shape I was looking for. After looking at some other sites, and taking into account my throttle quadrant, I decided to keep the rear section narrow for added hip room, and the forward section would be wider to fit the throttle. The height in the front will be higher so the Curved Armrest for Fuel Shutoff Clearancethrottle will be at the relative same height as the stick. I took a lesson from John Basol’s site and curved the rear section of the center console to leave room for the fuel selector switch. I highly recommend (as do others) to build a mock-up with cardboard, and sit in the fuselage to rest for fit. After doing this, I cut out the sides from 3/8″ PVC, and glassed the inside with 1 BID. Oriented the side plates of the throttle onto theThrottle Quadrant Hard Pointsinsides, and matched drilled, and installed nut plates on the throttle body plates. Cut some sections of phenolic block for hard points to connect the throttle body to the center console without crushing the foam. I had to use this technique because I hollowed out some foam to make room for the throttle, and it turned out I didn’t need to. The other hard points I will be able to make out of flox. I then placed 6 plies BID over the corner of a 2×4, and cut 1.5″ pieces after cure for hard Center Console Mounting Bracketspoints. Bondo’d the center console with throttle assembled to it into place and then floxed the 90 degree pieces onto the heat duct so the center console can screw to it. After cure, I drilled match holes through both so the center console will be removable. I then put some release tape on the side of the IP and glassed the center console to the release tape, so I can add another mounting point there.

Front Console 2

Duplicated the armrests for the passenger side using similar technique. Decided to make some 90 degree tabs for mounting the arm rests to the fuselage, similar to how the center console is mounted. Did this by laying up 6 BID over the 90 degree edge of the 2×4 Right Angle Layups for Mounting BracketsMounting Bracketsand cutting into strips after cure. Then I aligned tabs on the arm rest to the other edge will lay on the fuselage side, and match drilled a #12 hole through both pieces and added an AN3 nut plate to the bracket. Put in an AN3 bolt to hold it together, and then floxed all the tabs to the fuselage and used clamping pressure to hod in place. After cure, I just unbolted the bolts, and removed the arm rests from the tabs, which are now part of the fuselage. Then ground off any excess flox, and added more flox to fill in gaps.

Armrest HardpointsDremmeled out around the holes and filled with flox to make a hard point, and covered with 1 ply BID, and covered with peel ply. Re-drilled the holes through the hard point, and checked for fit. Cut out foam for the rear center console and assembled with drywall screws. Cut out the pieces for the seat pans, seat bulkheads, seat backs, and center console and glassed with one ply BID.After floxing the rear center console together and BID taping, glassed the outside with 2 BID. Also glassed the other side of the seat bulkheads, and seat backs with 2 BID. Cut the 1″ slits in the seat pans to contour to the curvature of the front seats. Bondo’d to them temporarily and glassed with 2 BID.

Continuing to work on the seats, arm rests, and consoles. Glassed in supports for the rear consoles. Did this by attaching them temporarily to the arm rest first, then floxing the bottoms of the tabs onto the center console. After cure, I removed the screws and removed the console. Glassed the seat bulkheads in place. Cut 3″ hinges for the front seats, back seats, and rear seat backs. Anodized the hinges and attached the hinges to the rear seats.

Cross Hair CenteringHave the rear center console with the matching holes 1/8″. Had the idea of drawing cross hairs showing the exact center of the hole. Then routed the holes to about 1/2″ in diameter, making sure not to go all the way through the glass on the rear. Put some masking tape over the inside holes, and filled the cavity with flox and covered with 1 BID. Once cured, will extend my cross hairs again and find my center, and re-drill my holes with a #12 bit in place. So I also drill through the mounting tabs for a perfect match drilled hole. Then glassed the hinge area of the front seats. Seat Hard PointsNot in the plans, but a good idea to secure the seat. After cure, I re-extended the cross hairs and re-drilled on the drill press. Put in place, and match drilled through the supports. Added nutplates for a perfect fit.

 

Landing Brake Actuator CoverCut out the foam for the belly board actuator, 5 min then together, and glassed with 2 ply BID. After cure, I secured it in place and added the 2 BID flange around the outside edges to secure later.

 

 

 

Front Cabin AreaRear Cabin Area

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About Tarmac Grazer

I have recently purchased Cozy MK IV Plans #1627, and will be using this blog to log my build progress.
This entry was posted in 24. Covers & Fairings. Bookmark the permalink.

One Response to 175hrs – Ch 24 – Covers and Fairings

  1. Mark Aylor says:

    How about an update, Chad? This is where you were when I saw it last. 🙂

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