I had already cut the birch CS109 and CS117 pieces. Normally you wouldn’t fiberglass these until after you flox them in the fuselage, since it wouldn’t need much more glass to cover than the BID tapes anyway, but since I am using click bonds to secure the bearings, I wanted fiberglass to flox them to. I marked where the holes would normally be drilled with a punch, then used a compass to draw a circle around the mark, so I can align the click bonds easier when I flox them on. Added 1 BID to the sides that will get the clickbonds, peel ply, and set aside for cure.
Cut out all the additional tubing to size and began cleaning up the edges. Sanded the cut pieces of tubing in preparation for connecting.
Started drilling and assembling the parts for the controls. First hole was not as expected, as I didn’t have good luck with the drilling a small hole first, and opening to the #12 like the plans state. I used the #12 bit right away, and the results seemed pretty good. There were a few holes I would have liked to have had more vertical with the others, but all in all, I can’t complain.
Measured and marked the position of the bearing blocks. A water level is a big help with this. Turned the fuselage on the left side and sanded the glass around where the bearing blocks connect. Bondo’d in my blocks for floxing in the blocks. During floxing, I accidentally twisted the block too much, and the click bonds popped off. (as they weren’t glassed in place yet) Floxed them back on and weighted for cure. I will try floxing the blocks in after the clickbonds cure. I also found when drilling my holes in the control tubes for a tight fit, my tubing didn’t fit nicely against the washers. Turns out that the problem was that the washers are too big and overlap onto the two holes for the snap ring pliers, where as the rest of the washer fits inside the snap ring, causing the washers to fit at an angle. I was able to notch my washer to get it to slip past the snap ring holes, but that left me with some play in the bearing that needed a snug fit. I was able to double up on washers on the side opposite of the snap ring, and I only had to file a little off the adjoining part to secure the snug fit I was looking for. Controls are MUCH smoother! Duplicated my work on the other side, but need to order a couple extra washers.
Floxed the bearing blocks in place after sanding the hole in the seatback and LG bulkheads a little larger for clearance. Fiberglassed the bearing blocks to the fuselage with 2 BID on each side. Put shrink wrap over the click bonds to protect them from epoxy while fiberglassing. The fiberglass bunched up around the clickbond post some, so I will have to evaluate after cure.
Turned the fuselage over and floxed the bearing blocks in using the same technique as the left side. Allowed to cure.
Glassed both sides and lapped onto the fuselage. I was not real satisfied how the BID separated around the clickbond post, so I added some scraps as a patch and the smaller piece didn’t separate as much.
Blocked up the controls so the stick was at the proper angle, and the bellcranks at the firewall were as well, and drilled the last of the holes in the torque tubes. Then I floxed the CS123 bearings into the firewall and bolted the torque tubes together so there was no sag.
Created the foam molds for the electrical conduits, covered in tape for release, and glassed with 2 plies BID. Glassed into place in the fuselage. Similar to Wayne Hicks, I glassed in triangular pieces to help support the control blocks, so I can install removable arm rests. Painted the control rods with Dupli-Color Self-Etching primer.