90 Hrs – Ch 19 – Ailerons

Cutting the AileronsCut the ailerons out per the dimensions.  Here is where I come to find out that the peel ply that was put on during the wing skinning has now become my nemesis.  I apparently screwed up the placement of this in three different ways (my all time best).  (1) I took one of the measurements (outboard)from the very end of the aileron, instead of 12″ inboard from the end.  This places the peel ply further into the wing than you want.  (2) I put the peel ply on the wrong side of the Ailerons Cut Outhotwire opening, which puts the peel ply in the aileron, instead of in the wing.  (3) I put micro on the whole wing before putting the peel ply on, which makes getting the peel ply off almost impossible!

I augured out the foam and tried getting the peel ply out, which only worked for the top side where the hinges attach on the left wing.  The top of the right wing is the part where the peel ply is in the aileron, so it just needed the micro to be sanded off.

Peel Ply in AileronAfter talking with Dennis for advice, I sanded the section with the stuck peel ply the best I could with a Dremmel tool and sanded down the foam smooth on the edges.  Dennis also recommended sanding down the foam inside the trailing edge rib to give more space for the counter weight.  When asking about the peel ply stuck in the aileron, Dennis said not to worry about that one, since there is a BID ply that wraps around the counterweight and attaches to fiberglass on either side, so I won’t have to worry about delamination at that point.  Hallowed out the side ends of the opening and rounded the opening for the aileron torque tube.

Floxing Weight on the AileronSince I decided to wait to glass the trailing edge spar til the weekend, I went ahead and started on the aileron.  Started by removing the foam sliver to attach the steel rod to.  In talking to Dennis, he warned me not to take any more off than needed.  The plans say 3/8″, but Dennis recommends 1/4″ instead.  You will need to sand a little more foam out of the trailing edge spar area for clearance.  Instead of putting the TE of the aileron in foam to micro the steel rod to, I laid the aileron down on my table with the edge on a strip of duct tape for release.  Placed 2 screws behind the trailing edge in the table (not the aileron) to act as a back stop for applying pressure.  Then I micro’d the slit where I removed the 1/4″ foam, and placed screws in the table behind the steel bar to keep the bar from coming off.  Wedging a single Popsicle stick between the screw and the steel bar, seemed to be the perfect amount of clamping pressure.

Wing Rib 2Glassed the inside of the TE spar.  3 Plies BID, 1 extra BID at the hinge locations (per plans).  The ends of the aileron cutout are also glassed at this time.

Aileron Hinge GapAfter trimming the last layup, I marked and cut the hinge depressions.  I then turned my attention to the aileron, where I created the depressions for the metal hinge plates and for the A10 torque tube.  I took the Wayne Hicks approach, and 5min epoxied an angle straight edge to the hardware to ensure all the hinges will be on the same plane and not get any binding.  Once Torque Tube Openingit was secured, I 5min epoxied the A10 torque tube behind the hinge plate.  Once all the hardware was secured, we micro’d all the metal parts onto the aileron.  Used some clamps and weight to keep things tight to the aileron.  Performed the same for the other aileron.

Glassing Front of AileronThe skin protruded slightly from the foam and hinge plates, so I took my long sanding board and sanded it down and also rounded the fiberglass edge at the same time.  Micro’d the foam, and added 1 layer BID on the ailerons.

Glassing Ends of Ailerons

Routed out the .4″ of foam in the ailerons and had to use the Dremmel to file down some of the micro to get the depth.  Glassed the ribs of the ailerons with 2 ply BID.

Attaching Hinges to WingI cut my angle iron down to fit inside the aileron opening.  I bondo’d the hinges on the inside  of the angle iron after marking the correct positions.  This allowed me to run the machined edge of the hinges along the inside corner of the angle iron, and insure all the hinges are in perfect alignment.  Then I took the assembly to the wing and c-clamped the hinges in position.  Drilled the #30 holes, and then opened to #12 per plans.  Hold in place with clecos and checked movement of the hinge assembly.  Not too bad.  I do notice that the inboard hinges binds a slight bit, so I Attaching Hinges to the Aileron for Drillingwill have to investigate.  (Just needed a little sanding of fiberglass to flatten.)  Started to line up the aileron, but I need to sand down some glass to get the counterweight to clear the aft wing edge.  Long tedious process.

Installed the ailerons into the openings with boards clamping them into position.  Then I used the hacksaw blade trick to align the hinges to the correct location on the ailerons.  Then I mixed up some bondo and put dob on the hinge half to adhere it to the aileron.  This method gives me plenty of time to mix and apply the bondo, rather than the other ways I’ve seen where you have to hurry to get the aileron aligned before the Riveting Hinges to Aileronbondo or 5min epoxy dries.  Since the bondo is only being held on at the edge of the hinge, be sure to let the bondo cure fully.  I did not on the first attempt and my hinges fell off when I removed the aileron.  Then I started drilling my 1/8″ rivet holes.  I started with 2 cheap non-aviation rivets in each hinge to begin with to check fit.  Assembled the whole assembly and checked for binding.  All was good, so I drilled the rest of the holes, and drilled out the cheap rivets to remove the hinges.

Prepared the hinges and used the Alumiprep and Alodine to protect the aluminum.  Removed the hinge pins for this process.

Sanded the hinge half that was receiving flox and the hinge pads on the ailerons.  Applied wet flox to the hinges, and riveted them in place permanently, using tape to protect the hinge pin area from getting any flox.  Cleaned up the excess flox, and had to cut the tape out from behind the hinges, as it wouldn’t come out.  Checked hinge movement one final time, and set aside to cure.

Checking Aileron FitPut the ailerons in and started checking my gaps.  Plans say they should be at .08 to .2.  I was shooting for about .12.  Normally I would want to keep at the minimum distances, but there have been issues in the past with the counterweight catching on the wing in high G turns.  There was an extra ply of BID added to the hinge locations to solve this years ago, but I figured no sense in tempting fate.

Attaching Bearing Rod to Torque TubeFinished adjusting the gaps, and then started working on the aileron controls.  Drilled the holes in CS151 and the universal joint.




Right Wing Controls

Aileron Torque Tube OpeningFitted the aileron, but ran into clearance issues with the bolt in the outside side of the universal joint.  The plans show that bolt as opposite direction as the inboard side, but Dennis confirmed they should both be running for/aft to line up with the oblong hole in the wing.  Now I was able to mount the aileron, but wasn’t able to get full motion with the bolt hitting.  Used the die grinder to auger out the foam some more.  Ended up having to auger all the way to the bottom skin, and I’m still not sure if I am rubbing.  Doesn’t sounds like it, though.  Ron will be coming over sometime soon to take a look, and he suggested getting the bearing floxed in place first, and then see where I am.

Aileron Bearing - Clickbond InstallAileron Bearing - Clickbond Install 2

Floxed the clickbonds for the spherical bearing in place, after adding a couple extra plies of BID for reinforcement.  Clamped in place with some wood blocks.  Also added the replacement BID over the inboard hard point and peel ply’d.  Added BID 2 Ply over the clickbonds for the spherical bearing.  Used some lipstick on the boot of the U-joint to see where it was rubbing, then used the die grinder to grind into the skin from the inside.  Will need to add a BID on the outside surface and 1 layer on the inside to help reinforce, but the U-joint no longer rubs on the skin.

Patching Unused HolesThe holes I drilled into the wing for mounting the brackets was .4″ off and CS128 would not clear the wing root.  Moved the brackets .4″ inboard and everything fit much better.  I will need to patch up the unused holes with flox and 1 BID to fix.  Also realized I need to order some additional parts like (4) M4 rod ends and associated hardware.  Will finish up once it arrives.Aileron Control Hardware

It’s been a busy month, and garage time was a little scarce.  I tried to get in the garage as much as possible, and fussing with the aileron control hardware has been a slow process…  I did receive the replacement hardware, but the AN4 holes in the CS128 brackets are tripping me up again.  When using the wide area AN4 washers in place of the AN3 variety, it adds too much to the diameter and interferes with the wing.  To solve this, I Aileron Control Hardware 2drilled out the wide area AN3 washers to fit.  Assembled all the hardware to find that the vertical bolt connecting CS128 bell crank to the rod end is rubbing on the lower CS127 bracket.  In searching other sites, this appears to be somewhat common.  I was able to elongate the mounting holes for the lower CS127 bracket, so it sit lower, which gave me more clearance.  With everything mounted correctly, I adjusted the rodends so everything is 90 degrees with the ailerons in trail (per plans).  The Cozy Girrrl CS128 are nice in that they have a center hole drilled in them so you can run along AN3 bolt through them for this alignment.  Clamped the ailerons in an in trail position.  The plans have you drill the hole through CS152 and the CS132 bell crank at this time to lock everything in position, but if you get the CS152 and CS132 parts from the Cozy Girrrls, that hole is predrilled, so you have to figure out how to drill through CS151 and CS152 instead.  I ended up putting a dab of 5min epoxy on the lip of CS152 before slipping it into CS151 and bolting everything into position.  After cure, I removed everything, used electrical tape to ensure the tubes wouldn’t move out of position, and drilled the hole.  Added the bolt, and reassembled everything for a perfect fit.  At this point I noticed the rivets on the rod end rubbing, and smoothed everything out in preparation for 2 layer glass BID.  Prepped the area in the aileron wing root for new glass.

Aileron Torque Tube Opening GlassedGlassed 1 layer inside the aileron torque tube hole, and 1 layer over the pushrod clearance area.  Than added 1 layer over the CS127 attach bolt holes, and added flox from the other side to close up the unused and elongated holes.  Re-drilled the elongated holes at the proper position after cure.

Floxing Clickbonds for Aileron AttachFloxing Clickbonds for Aileron Attach 2

Used the Dremmel to rout out the aileron hinge holes to make room for the click bonds.  Used the grinder to dent the edges of the clickbonds to prevent spinning, cleaned with acetone, and installed into the wing with flox.  Covered with 1 ply BID and peel ply.  After cure, I had to wallow out the holes on the hinges for easier removal.

Left Wing Controls

Drilled out the hole in the wing root with a uni-bit, and cleaned up with the Dremmel.  Had to grind out the aileron torque tube hole to clear the bolts on the u-joint.  After verifying clearance for travel, I cut the torque tube to length.  Knowing that the plans are not accurate in the placement of the CS127 brackets, I did not us the measurements as gospel.  Instead, I started by measuring 6″ out from the inside wing root face, which is where the center of the bolt going through the bearing should be.  Transferred the mark to the front face and drew a vertical line for the outboard bolts.  I then used the measurements from the plans for how high to drill the upper bolts, and used the holes in CS127 to get the spacing correct.  Then I proceeded to drill the fop 2 holes only and fastened with bolts.  I bolted my rodends at this time so I can check washer clearance for the inside root face, and bolt clearance on CS127.  The bolt to CS127 clearance was thin, so I spread the CS127 brackets apart a little to add some clearance.  Once it all looked good, I could shine a flashlight on the inside and see where the light shines through, and marked the holes for drilling.  Drilled the holes and fastened everything together.  The rod wouldn’t clear the fiberglass, like on the right wing, so I augured it out with the die grinder.  Everything now seems to be clear.

Finished prepping the surfaces for glass, and glassed my modifications.  There was also an air bubble on the inside hard point, so I ground it down and put a new layer of glass on it, making sure to put some saran wrap on it to help keep it down.  Put 2 layers of BID where the clickbonds will mount,m and floxed them in place while mounted in the bearing.  Clamped in place, and peel plied everything I could.

I did end up having some clearance issues on the u-joint area.  I tried the lipstick trick on the bolt heads and u-joint, but no luck.  I could still only get 18 degrees up aileron.  Took all the torque tube hardware off, and I was able to get 28 degrees.  Then added pieces back on one at a time until I found the culprit.  Ended up being the bolt (tread end) on the inboard side of the u-joint.  Augured out some foam, and we were back at 28 degrees.  Set up and drilled the hole for the rodend and CS152 like the right side.  Then prepped and glassed over the clickbonds for the root end spherical bearing.  Covered in peel ply, then saran wrap and mounted the bearing back in place til cure.

After adding the glass for the clickbonds, the thickness buildup was too much to connect the bolt hardware.  I had to re-drill the hole through the torque tube to get the proper clearance.

Now that the torque tube is corrected, I was able to install the click bonds for holding the aileron in place.  Routed out an indentation on the top of the wing, installed the clickbonds from the top with flox, and covered with 1 ply BID.  After cure, I pried the aileron off the clickbonds, and again had to wallow out the holes on the aileron hinge so they would remove easily.

About Tarmac Grazer

I have recently purchased Cozy MK IV Plans #1627, and will be using this blog to log my build progress.
This entry was posted in 19. Wings, Ailerons & Wing Attach and tagged . Bookmark the permalink.

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