36.5 Hrs – Ch 13 – Fuselage Nose

Brake Reservoir Bracket Backing PlateCreated the backing plate for mounting the brake fluid reservoirs.  After verifying fit with the brackets, I floxed it into place and was able to add 1  ply BID along the bottom edge for good measure.  Took this time to add the 2 plies on the back side of the lift tab holes, too.  Then I took some various tubing and screwed them to the table on a piece of plastic.  Then I wet out 1 ply  BID, and cut into strips.  I made sure the strips were thick enough that they would lay over the tubing, tuck in along the bottom of the tubing, and still have enough for a flange on both sides.  After cure, I will cut these into 3/4″ pieces to use for cable and tubing supports.  Then I will be able to flox to the fuselage and cover with 1 ply BID.

Electrical ConduitI thought that before I close up the nose, it would be best to try to get everything done possible in the nose area, before it gets less accessible.  I routed some tubing in the nose for electrical conduit and glassed with 1 BID.  I also added one of my home made tubing supports for the pitot line as well.  Finished with peel ply.

Flushed out the pitot line and reinstalled in the nose.  Finished connecting the support with 5 Min Epoxy flox and 1 layer of BID with peel ply.

Xenon Headlight IgnitersCreated some metal bands to secure the igniters to the aft side of F0.  Mounted nut plates to the rear of the bands after bending properly around the igniters.  Note that before I attached the nutplates, I used the holes to drill the holes in F0.  Then I ran AN3 bolts through the front side of F0 into the nutplates on the other side to cinch the igniters tight against F0.


Forming Headlight LensesDecided to form some lenses tonight.  Started by cutting some pieces of the 1/8″ acrylic in the rough size.  Laid one piece on some t-shirt material, and put in the oven at 275 degrees to soften it up.  Then laid into the nose cone to get the curvature.  The piece was a little too large and would not curve completely, so I marked a closer outline and cut on the sabre saw.  Went through the process again and I go the curvature closer, but not close enough.  I will have to try the Wayne Hicks “composite Cleco” method to hold down the corners.

Nose Top TapesInstead of waiting for the weekend, I was feeling ambitious and decided to glass the bottom of the fuselage top and flox/tape in place.  Added the extra BID around the flange area as specified in the plans.  Used peel ply on the edges, making sure to leave enough room for the BID tapes after floxing back in place (or so I thought).  Since it’s hard to see the underside after it’s floxed in place, I found a few places where I laid BID tapes over peel ply.  I removed the glass from those locations after trimming the edges, and will have to fix during the next session.

There was some flox that needed to be cleaned up on the outside edges where I re-attached Nose Top Inside Tape Repairsthe nose top, so I cleaned that up with the Dremmel tool.  Then I prepared some BID tapes.  I started with inside, where I removed the sections of BID tape because I applied them over peel ply.  I reapplied new BID tapes over those areas and added peel ply.  Then I ran a bead of micro down the edge of the nose top, so there would be a smooth transition over any offsets between the two mating pieces.  Nose Top Outside Tapes(Note:  I don’t think it’s going to matter, but part of me wonders if I would have been better off using flox for that.)  I guess if a crack develops, I will have to fix it then.  Applied the 2″ BID tapes on the sides and peel ply added.

Created the foam piece to connect the nose top to the top of F22.  The plans drawing shows this being one piece, but the M drawing shows it as two.  I decided to make it out of one piece first and attach the canard to check for fit.  Turns out Nose Top Reinforcementthere were clearance issues, so I made it in two pieces instead.  Glassed the bottom of the piece, let it tack cure, then floxed it into place, adding 1 BID tapes to the bottom joints.

Glassed the top of the piece and peel plied.

Test fit the canard, but it was fitting too tight, so I decided to sand down the glass and some of the foam to make some more room.  Glassed with 1 BID and peel plied again.

Reservoir Bracket Mounting RepairsReservoir Bracket Mounting RepairsIn trying to connect the brake fluid reservoirs, they weren’t wanting to connect with enough space between the brackets for the reservoirs to fit.  In trying to make it fit, I ended up crushing the foam when tightening it up.  Cut out a section of the front glass where it was crushed, and removed the foam behind it.  I used the front glass I cut out as a template for drilling new holes.  I cut a birch plywood piece to fit in the hole, and then used the template I cut out to drill the new holes in the plywood.  Floxed into the hole after putting Vaseline in the nut plate holes.  Put some Vaseline on the bolts, and bolted the brackets on, which clamped the wood to the fiberglass backing till cure.

Removed the bolts and brackets, sanded, and glassed with 2 plies of BID.  Then peel plied.

Reservoir Bracket Mounting Fixed


About Tarmac Grazer

I have recently purchased Cozy MK IV Plans #1627, and will be using this blog to log my build progress.
This entry was posted in 13. Nose, Nose Gear & Brakes. Bookmark the permalink.

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