21 Hrs – Chapter 13 – Nose and Nose Gear

Bulbing out the Front Gear StrutAfter some discussion on the forums about how to go about floxing the strut into the castering wheel assembly, it sounds like it is better to add some BID to the very tip of the strut to make it bulbus, and then grind out the nose wheel assembly to fit, so that is what I did.  Floxed in place and added Grinding Out the Castoring Wheel AssemblyAN4-13 bolts and snugged to fit.  The reason for doing this, is because if the strut were ever to come loose in the nose wheel assembly, it cannot fall off.  Things falling off planes is bad.

Packing Wheel BearingsAfter the flox has cured, I removed the bolts, added some washers for spacers between MKNG2 and MKNG15, and torqued them down.  Measured the strut, marked on the fuselage bottom, and cut out with the jig saw.  Added grease into the wheel bearings, the bearings for the pivot, and the castering part of the nose wheel.  Then installed back into the NG30’s.  Checked for fit, and will have to open the hole a bit more to get it to fit.

Strut Cover Floxed in PlaceFloxed the strut cover in place, after cutting the hole and trimming to fit.

Nosewheel Cutout in FuselageTrimmed the nose wheel well to fit the opening and checked for clearance with the tire.  Doesn’t appear to be much extra room in there.  Drilled a few holes on each side and put in some nails so I could position in the correct position again later.  Purchased a Wheel Wellpiece of Polycarbonate from Lowes for the windows for gear viewing.  Esthetically, I’m not real happy with the plans window shape, and the size seems to be too small from whet I’ve heard.  I decided to use more of a trapezoid shape (almost triangular), as it seems to be a more natural shape for viewing at an angle.  All personal preference, I guess.  I started by cutting out my hole in the wheel well, then cutting the Polycarbonate Windows Floxed into Positionpolycarbonate .5″ over sized all around.  Drilled some holes for clecos, and floxed into place.  I left the protective layer on in the viewing area, and made sure to clean up all my flox.  When cured, I will remove the protective layer and clecos, and then fill the cleco holes with micro.  I used Vaseline on the clecos so flox wouldn’t stick, so I may have to drill the holes slightly larger to remove the Vaseline so the micro will stick.

Wheel Well Floxed onto FuselageRemoved the clecos, but noticed the plexiglass pulling away from the wheel cover.  Put the clecos back on, and will allow to cure longer.  Created the wedge for diverting the heat, but was worried about being able to get glass on it after the wheel cover was in place.  I decided to add this piece to the wheel cover before putting the cover in place instead.  I did leave a bit of fiberglass sticking out the bottom so I could glass to the floor.  Added peel ply to the edges, and floxed in place.

Rudder Pedal DepressionRudder Pedal DepressionTaped the edges of the wheel well after adding a bead of micro to the edges.  Added peel ply.  Used leftover micro to fill the gap between the strut cover and F28.  Also used leftover micro for the inside corners of the depression I had to create for the ruder pedals to travel.  Added two layers of BID and will trim the edges in the morning.


About Tarmac Grazer

I have recently purchased Cozy MK IV Plans #1627, and will be using this blog to log my build progress.
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