45.5 Hrs – Chapter 13 – Nose Gear

Glassing Over Rudder Pedal HolesAssembled the nose gear to test fit and see if I am missing anything.  Need to order some washers and look for some grease nipples to add grease to bearings later.  Disassembled the parts again, and added 2 plies of BID over the rudder pedal holes so I can drill them out with the 3/4″ hole saw after cure.

Turned the nose box over and covered the holes on the other side with 2 plies BID and peel ply.  Decided to start cutting the urethane while that dried, and also sanded some of the excess flox off the front gear strut.

Gear Box Floxed and TapedFloxed the nose gear in place and applied the BID tapes.  Due to the various fiberglass layups, it is hard to verify plumb and square.  I ended up verifying center by dropping a plumb bob from a step ladder in front of F0, and I was able to eyeball the center lines on F0, F22, F28, and the instrument panel with the string.  I was able to verify square by measuring from the center line on F0 to various points on the fuselage and comparing between the left and right side.  Dished out the urethane foam from the fuselage bottoms.  Used the dremmel tool to route out the depth on each of the contour lines.  Then I dished out the foam and sanded Centering the Nose Boxuntil the contour lines disappeared to get the right depth.  Cut out NG-31 and sanded.  Had some time left, so I went shopping at the auto store and bought some halogen headlights to put in the nose cone.  Tested the light pattern to see what I’ve got.  Not sure 100%, but they will certainly work.

Fitted the urethane foam in the nose section.  Sanded for fit.  Glassed both sides of NG-31.

Fuselage BottomsWet micro’d the foam into the nose section.  There were some gaps that I tried filling with micro, but quite a bit dripped through the bottom.  Traced NG32 on to birch plywood, cut it out, and glassed with 2 BID layers and peel ply on both sides.

Micro’d in a triangular piece to transition the F22 edge to the fuselage floor.  Glassed in 2 layers of BID on the fuselage floor and added one additional piece over F22 and back 3″ on the floor.  Made sure to peel ply really well on that section, as that is where the shoe abuse will be, and I certainly don’t want any delamination in that area.

Cut out the urethane pieces for the nose sides and sanded edges from the fuse bottom.  Also cut the two wedge pieces, but did not fasten them to the sides yet.  Will have to do that tomorrow.

Nose SidesChecked the side pieces on the nose and marked the bulkhead outlines.  Then marked the thickness for the nose sides and cut out a template for carving the inside.

Carved out the nose sides based on the template, micro’d the foam inside and glassed with 2 plies BID.  Left the glass overhang per plans, and cure for 2 hours, 3-Ply Reinforcementthen installed with wet micro.  Added dry micro into the corners for a transition, and glassed to F0, F22, and the fuselage bottom.  Added the 3 plies of BID into the upper corners for the lift tabs, and peel plied all the edges.  Then I drilled the holes for adding nails into the NG-31 and NG-32 pieces.  Floxed them in place with the nails.

NG-31 and NG-32 with BID Tapes and Peel PlyMicro’d the corners where NG-31 and NG-32 attached to F0, and added BID tapes to fuse them to F0.  Finished up with peel ply.

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About Tarmac Grazer

I have recently purchased Cozy MK IV Plans #1627, and will be using this blog to log my build progress.
This entry was posted in 13. Nose, Nose Gear & Brakes. Bookmark the permalink.

2 Responses to 45.5 Hrs – Chapter 13 – Nose Gear

  1. Matt Jackson says:

    Hey Chad, we may have talked about this at Oshkosh, but which nose lift are you going with?

    • Haven’t decided 100%, but pretty sure it will be the Wilhelmson lift. I just have the manual lift in temporarily for now, and the Wilhelmson is a direct replacement for it. I still plan to do more of a direct comparison, before deciding for sure, though. You?

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